Syrah is one of the world most adaptable grapes. In warm climates it produces big, ripe wines often labeled Shiraz. In cooler climates – Northern Rhône France especially – it produces aromatic, savoury, peppery wines that drink more like cool-climate Pinot Noir than the Shiraz most Americans grew up on.

The eight appellations

Côte-Rôtie – the most aromatic, often co-fermented with Viognier. Producers: Guigal, Jamet, Clusel-Roch.

Hermitage – the most concentrated. Producers: Chave, Chapoutier.

Cornas – the rawest. Needs 5-15 years. Producers: Allemand, Clape, Voge.

Saint-Joseph – lighter and more approachable. Producers: Faury, Gonon.

Crozes-Hermitage – the most affordable. A great place to learn the Northern Rhône style at $30-$40. Producers: Alain Graillot.

Condrieu – white only, 100% Viognier. Aromatic, peachy.

How it tastes

Black pepper (almost always), violets, smoked meat or bacon (especially Côte-Rôtie), olive tapenade, dried herbs, and a graphite-like minerality from the granite. Dark fruit but never the loudest thing in the glass.

If you only ever drink one Northern Rhône Syrah, make it a Crozes-Hermitage from a serious producer. The most accessible introduction to the most influential cool-climate Syrah on Earth.

Wine Wednesdays cycle through the Northern Rhône a few times a year.