Saint-Aubin sits in the hills behind Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, and for most of the twentieth century it was treated as the village those two regions left behind. That changed when Olivier Lamy took over from his father Hubert in 1995.

The vineyard.

Where most Burgundian growers plant at around 10,000 vines per hectare, Olivier replants at 14,000 and in some plots at 30,000 — closer to the densities of the great gardens of Vosne-Romanée at the start of the 20th century. The argument is simple: smaller crops per vine, deeper roots, more concentrated and more mineral fruit. The work is difficult, every operation has to be done by hand, and the wines justify it.

The estate’s heart is in three Saint-Aubin premiers crus: Derrière chez Edouard, Les Frionnes, and the wine we carry most consistently, En Remilly. Remilly sits directly across the road from the Montrachet vineyards — same hill, same exposure, a fraction of the price.

In the cellar.

Whole-cluster pressing for the whites, indigenous yeasts, long élevage in neutral barrels (the new oak percentage is around 15%, low for the level of the wine). Bâtonnage is minimal. Olivier is trying to capture the difference between his vineyards, not paper over it with wood and lees-stirring.

What to expect in the glass.

Saint-Aubin from Lamy is built on tension rather than weight. The wines smell of crushed stone, lemon pith, white peach, and on the older bottles, wax and sourdough. They drink beautifully on release and reward another seven to ten years in the cellar.

Pairing.

The 1er crus love roast chicken, mushroom risotto, and any preparation of trout or sole. The Bourgognes and village wines are the best aperitif white we sell — light enough to stand on their own, complex enough to hold attention.

Why we work with them.

Lamy is on allocation across the United States. Olivier sends a small parcel to Boulder each year, and we sell it in the order we receive it. The 2022s are arriving now — generous fruit, good acid spine, drinking wonderfully young. We expect the En Remilly to age for fifteen years.

Last visited: Saint-Aubin, October 2025. Brett tasted through the 2024 cask samples and the recently bottled 2022s with Olivier.