The land

The Willamette Valley runs south from Portland through western Oregon for about 100 miles. The valley is sheltered from the Pacific by the Coast Range and from Pacific weather extremes by the Cascade mountains to the east. The latitude (45-46°N) is similar to Burgundy. The soils split into two major families — Jory (red volcanic basalt) and Willakenzie (marine sedimentary) — and the differences are clearly visible in the wines. Pinot Noir is the dominant grape; Chardonnay has been emerging as a second serious focus over the last decade.

The sub-AVAs

Six sub-AVAs within the Willamette Valley: Dundee Hills (the most famous, on Jory volcanic soils), Eola-Amity Hills (cooler, windier, on a mix of soils), Chehalem Mountains, Ribbon Ridge (a small mostly-Willakenzie sub-AVA), Yamhill-Carlton (Willakenzie), McMinnville. The newer Van Duzer Corridor, Lower Long Tom, Tualatin Hills, and Laurelwood District AVAs round out the picture. Each sub-AVA has a distinct character.

Style of the wines

Willamette Pinot Noir is cool-climate, fragrant, often Burgundy-style. The aromatic intensity is the calling card — red fruit, rose petal, sometimes a herbal lift. Dundee Hills (volcanic) wines tend to be slightly more elegant and floral; Willakenzie-soil wines tend to be slightly darker, fruit-forward, and structured. Willamette Chardonnay has been improving rapidly — the better wines now resemble serious Côte de Beaune more than the older ‘California-style’ Oregon Chardonnay of the 1990s.

Vintages to know

2021 — outstanding. 2018 — exceptional. 2016 — superb. 2014 — generous. 2012 — legendary.

Producers we know

Domaine Drouhin (Maison Joseph Drouhin’s Oregon project), Eyrie Vineyards (the historical pioneer — David Lett planted the first Pinot here in 1965), Beaux Frères (Robert Parker’s nephew Mike Etzel’s estate), Cristom, Bergström, Domaine Serene, Ken Wright Cellars, Antica Terra, Brick House Vineyards, Soter Vineyards. For Chardonnay specifically: Eyrie, Walter Scott, Bethel Heights.