The land

Sicily is the largest of the Mediterranean islands and one of the largest wine-producing regions in Italy by volume. The geography is dramatic — Mount Etna (active stratovolcano) in the east, the central highlands of the interior, the limestone hills of the southeast around Noto and Vittoria, the volcanic Aeolian islands offshore. The combination of altitude, maritime influence, ancient soils, and old vines has made Sicily one of the most exciting fine-wine regions of the last quarter-century.

The appellations

Etna DOC — the wine appellation circling Mount Etna at elevations from 400 to 1,000+ metres. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily’s only DOCG) — a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato from southeastern Sicily. Marsala DOC — the historical fortified-wine appellation. Pantelleria DOC — the volcanic island off the south coast, home to Moscato di Pantelleria Passito (a great dried-grape sweet wine). Vittoria DOC. Eloro DOC. The broader Sicilia DOC covers the rest of the island.

Etna — the revival

Mount Etna is one of the most exciting fine-wine zones in modern Europe. Vineyards perched on lava and volcanic ash, at altitudes that produce ripe but fresh wines, with old indigenous grapes (Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio for reds; Carricante for whites). The combination has produced a generation of wines that are often compared to Burgundy and the Northern Rhône — pale-colored, structured, deeply mineral, age-worthy. The Etna revival began in the late 1990s and accelerated through the 2000s; producers like Frank Cornelissen, Salvo Foti, Pietradolce, and Tenuta delle Terre Nere have built international reputations.

Style of the wines

Nero d’Avola (see /encyclopedia/grapes-encyclopedia/nero-davola-encyclopedia/): the dominant red of the island, structured and dark. Cerasuolo di Vittoria: the lighter, brighter blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato. Etna Rosso: pale, mineral, Burgundy-like wines from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. Etna Bianco: pale, mineral, structured whites from Carricante. Marsala: fortified Sherry-like wines (almost entirely meant for cooking now, with a small fine-wine revival). Moscato di Pantelleria Passito: dried-grape sweet wine.

Vintages to know

2019 — outstanding. 2018 — generous. 2016 — legendary.

Producers we know

Etna: Frank Cornelissen (cult, biodynamic, no-sulfur), Salvo Foti / I Vigneri, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Pietradolce, Graci, Passopisciaro (Vini Franchetti). Across Sicily: Planeta, Tasca d’Almerita (Rosso del Conte from Regaleali), Donnafugata, COS, Arianna Occhipinti, Gulfi, Marco De Bartoli (Marsala and Pantelleria).