The land

Languedoc-Roussillon stretches along the Mediterranean coast of France from the Rhône delta to the Spanish border — the largest wine-producing region in the world by volume. For most of the 20th century the region was synonymous with bulk wine and the EU vine-pull schemes that uprooted millions of acres of vineyard. The last three decades have seen a complete transformation, with serious producers focusing on old vines, Mediterranean grape varieties, and biodynamic farming. The region now produces some of the most exciting reds and whites in France at every price point.

The appellations

Languedoc AOP — the broad regional appellation. Sub-regions include Corbières, Minervois, Saint-Chinian, Faugères, Pic Saint-Loup, Picpoul de Pinet (the dry white from Picpoul on coastal salt soils), Cabardès, Limoux (Crémant de Limoux and Blanquette de Limoux — the sparkling appellation that claims to predate Champagne). Roussillon AOP — the southern half, on the Spanish border, with Côtes du Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Maury (sweet fortified Grenache), and Banyuls (sweet fortified Grenache from coastal sites). Many of the most ambitious wines are bottled as IGP Pays d’Oc to escape the appellation rules.

Style of the wines

Reds typically based on Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan (often from very old vines), and Cinsault — the classic Mediterranean GSM template. The best wines come from low-yielding old-vine sites in cooler higher-elevation zones (Pic Saint-Loup, La Clape, Faugères). Whites built on Picpoul, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, and Clairette. Banyuls and Maury are fortified Grenache-led dessert wines comparable to Vintage Port. Limoux makes some of the most exciting alpine-style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in southern France.

Vintages to know

2020 — outstanding. 2019 — exceptional. 2018 — generous. 2015 — concentrated.

Producers we know

Domaine de la Grange des Pères (a cult IGP red), Mas de Daumas Gassac (the original Languedoc icon), Domaine Léon Barral (Faugères), Domaine d’Aupilhac, Domaine Peyre Rose, Domaine du Clos des Fées (Roussillon), Domaine Gauby (Roussillon), Domaine de la Rectorie (Banyuls), Mas Amiel (Maury). For Picpoul and entry-level value: Domaine Félines Jourdan, Domaine Saint-Peyre.