The land

Greece has been making wine for at least 6,500 years — among the oldest continuous wine cultures on earth. The country’s wine landscape is geographically diverse: the volcanic Aegean islands (Santorini chief among them), the mountainous mainland of Macedonia, the Peloponnese, the Ionian islands, and the great vine-growing zones of Cephalonia, Crete, and Samos. Greek wine declined dramatically in the 20th century but has had a remarkable renaissance over the last three decades, led by producers focused on indigenous grape varieties and serious old-vine sites.

The major regions

Macedonia (northern Greece): Naoussa (Xinomavro, see /encyclopedia/grapes-encyclopedia/xinomavro-encyclopedia/), Amyndeon, Goumenissa. Peloponnese: Nemea (Agiorgitiko, see /encyclopedia/grapes-encyclopedia/agiorgitiko-encyclopedia/), Mantinia (Moschofilero), Patras. Santorini (Cyclades islands): Assyrtiko (see /encyclopedia/grapes-encyclopedia/assyrtiko-encyclopedia/). Cephalonia (Ionian islands): Robola, Mavrodaphne. Crete: Liatiko, Vidiano, Vilana. Samos: Muscat (the world’s reference Samos sweet Muscat).

The indigenous grape varieties

Greece has more native grape varieties — over 300 — than almost any other wine country. The most important: Assyrtiko (Santorini), Xinomavro (Macedonia), Agiorgitiko (Nemea), Moschofilero (Mantinia, aromatic pink-skinned white), Robola (Cephalonia), Malagousia (a revived ancient white grape), Vidiano (Crete), Mandilaria (Crete), Liatiko (Crete). All are worth seeking; almost none are widely planted outside Greece.

Style of the wines

Greek wines often have a saline-mineral quality from the Mediterranean influence. Reds tend toward the lighter, more aromatic, more food-friendly end of the spectrum (with the exception of Xinomavro and the structured Nemea reds). Whites are often defined by high acid and citrus-and-herb character. The wines pair naturally with the Mediterranean cuisine of olive oil, feta, lamb, and seafood.

Producers we know

Sigalas, Hatzidakis, Argyros, Vassaltis (Santorini Assyrtiko). Kir-Yianni, Boutari, Karydas, Foundis (Macedonia Xinomavro). Skouras, Gaia, Driopi, Papaioannou (Nemea Agiorgitiko). Tselepos (Mantinia Moschofilero). Gentilini (Cephalonia Robola). Lyrarakis (Crete).