The land

Campania sits south of Lazio, between the Apennine mountains and the Tyrrhenian Sea. The wine-growing zones are concentrated in the inland Irpinia hills east of Vesuvius — Avellino province — on volcanic soils that are some of the most distinctive in Italy. The Mount Vesuvius zone produces Lacryma Christi from the slopes of the still-active volcano. The Amalfi Coast and the Cilento further south also produce wine. Wine has been made in Campania for at least 2,500 years; ancient Falernian wine (described by Pliny and Horace) was made here.

The appellations

Taurasi DOCG — the prestigious Aglianico-dominant red appellation, often called the ‘Barolo of the south’ (see /encyclopedia/grapes-encyclopedia/aglianico-encyclopedia/). Greco di Tufo DOCG — the volcanic-soiled white from the village of Tufo (see /encyclopedia/grapes-encyclopedia/greco-encyclopedia/). Fiano di Avellino DOCG — the noble white from Irpinia (see /encyclopedia/grapes-encyclopedia/fiano-encyclopedia/). Falanghina del Sannio DOC and Campi Flegrei DOC — the lighter, fresher whites. Aglianico del Taburno DOCG. Costa d’Amalfi DOC.

Style of the wines

Volcanic minerality is the recurring theme. The reds (Aglianico-led Taurasi especially) are deeply structured, age-worthy, and require patience. The whites (Greco, Fiano, Falanghina) are typically high-acid, mineral, and serious. The cuisine of Campania — mozzarella di bufala, baccalà, pasta with seafood, lamb on the spit in Irpinia — pairs naturally with these wines.

Vintages to know

2019 — outstanding. 2017 — exceptional. 2016 — legendary. 2010 — great Taurasi vintage.

Producers we know

Mastroberardino (the historical reference — kept the indigenous grape varieties alive through the difficult mid-20th century), Feudi di San Gregorio, Quintodecimo, Pietracupa, Marisa Cuomo (Costa d’Amalfi), Cantine del Mare (Campi Flegrei), Vesevo, Donnachiara.