The character

Greco is a southern Italian grape with likely Greek origins (the name says it all). The most respected expression is Greco di Tufo DOCG, made in the Campania region on the volcanic-and-tuff soils around the town of Tufo. The wines are leaner, brighter, and more citrus-driven than Fiano, with a distinctive sulfur-and-flint smoky note from the volcanic terroir.

Where it grows best

Campania, Italy — primarily the small Greco di Tufo DOCG zone in Irpinia. Smaller plantings throughout southern Italy: Calabria (as Greco di Bianco, often sweet), parts of Apulia, and Lazio. The grape is genetically distinct from the much-larger-volume northern Italian grape Trebbiano (sometimes called Trebbiano di Soave or other names) — confusingly, southern Italy also has a separate variety called Greco Bianco.

How it tastes

Grapefruit, lemon, green apple, pear, white flower, wet flint, almond, with a savory sulfur-smoke note from the volcanic soils. Acid is bright to high; alcohol typically 12.5-13.5%; texture is medium-weight, leaner than Fiano. The wines have a saline mineral finish that places them geographically.

How it ages

Top Greco di Tufo ages ten to fifteen years and develops a honeyed, nutty tertiary complexity while keeping the bright acid backbone. Top producers (Mastroberardino, Feudi di San Gregorio, Pietracupa, Vesevo, Donnachiara) make wines that drink beautifully fresh and continue to evolve.

What to pair with

Seafood, especially the simpler preparations — grilled fish, fritto misto, baccalà, octopus salad. Pasta with seafood. Soft cheeses (mozzarella di bufala especially). Charcuterie. Greco is the great aperitivo white of southern Italy — bright, food-friendly, immediately approachable.