Geography

Pommard sits in the Côte de Beaune between Beaune to the north and Volnay to the south. The vineyards run up an east-facing slope on soils that are noticeably richer in clay and iron oxide than the limestone-dominated Volnay soils next door — and the wines reflect that difference. Pommard is one of the few Côte de Beaune villages where the reds are notably more tannic and structured than the regional norm.

Classification

No Grand Crus, but 28 Premier Crus, including the famous Les Rugiens (split into Les Rugiens-Bas and Les Rugiens-Hauts, the former considered to deserve Grand Cru status by many critics), Les Épenots (also split into Petits Épenots and Grands Épenots), Le Clos Blanc (a sliver of white wine is made here), Clos des Épeneaux (a Comte Armand monopole), Clos de la Commaraine. The ‘climats classification’ efforts in Burgundy continue to discuss whether Les Rugiens-Bas should be elevated.

Style of the wines

Pommard Pinot Noir is the most structured and tannic of the Côte de Beaune reds. Dark red and black fruit (cherry, plum, sometimes blackcurrant), iron-and-earth, dried herbs, with a firmer tannic spine than Volnay or Beaune. The clay-and-iron soils contribute the distinctive mineral character. Alcohol typically 12.5-13.5%; tannin firm; acid moderate. Young Pommard can be unyielding; the wines need time.

How they age

Premier Cru Pommard from a top producer ages twenty to thirty-five years. Les Rugiens and Les Épenots from Comte Armand or de Courcel can run forty-plus in a great vintage. Aging softens the tannin and brings out a savory, leather, dried-cherry tertiary complexity.

Producers we know

Comte Armand (the Clos des Épeneaux monopole — biodynamic, one of the great Pommards), Domaine de Courcel, Domaine Aleth Girardin, Domaine Lejeune, Domaine Albert Boillot.