Geography

Etna Rosso DOC covers the vineyards on the slopes of Mount Etna in northeastern Sicily — Europe’s tallest active volcano. The vineyards run from about 400 metres up to over 1,000 metres of elevation, on lava and volcanic ash soils that vary dramatically by contrada (a Sicilian term for a named sub-zone — the equivalent of Burgundy’s climats or Piedmont’s MGAs). The combination of high elevation, dramatic diurnal swings (sometimes 25°C between day and night during ripening), and ancient volcanic soils produces wines unlike anything else in southern Italy.

The grapes and the contrade

Etna Rosso is a blend dominated by Nerello Mascalese (minimum 80%) with smaller amounts of Nerello Cappuccio. The appellation contains nearly 130 named contrade, with the most respected (Feudo di Mezzo, Calderara Sottana, Guardiola, Barbabecchi, Rampante, Santo Spirito) producing wines that increasingly trade like Burgundy crus. The northern side of the mountain (where most of the famous contrade sit) produces leaner, more elegant wines; the eastern side produces more concentrated and structured wines.

Style of the wines

Etna Rosso: pale ruby — sometimes translucent in the glass, like Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. Red cherry, rose petal, dried herbs, sometimes a smoky-volcanic mineral spine that is the appellation’s calling card. Tannin is moderate but fine-grained; acid is bright; alcohol typically 13-14%. The wines are widely compared to top Burgundy and Northern Rhône, though they have their own personality.

How they age

Top Etna Rosso from a serious producer ages twenty years and continues to develop. The volcanic-mineral character intensifies with age; the red fruit dries and darkens; tertiary notes of leather, dried flowers, and smoke develop. The Etna revival is recent enough that the maximum aging arc is still being established.

Producers we know

Frank Cornelissen (cult, biodynamic, no-sulfur), Salvo Foti / I Vigneri, Tenuta delle Terre Nere (especially the single-contrada Calderara Sottana, Guardiola, Feudo di Mezzo, Santo Spirito bottlings), Pietradolce, Graci, Passopisciaro (Vini Franchetti’s project from the northern slope), Benanti.