The land

Abruzzo sits east of Rome between the Apennine mountains and the Adriatic. The region is dominated by the Gran Sasso (the highest peak in mainland Italy south of the Alps) and the Maiella massif. Vineyards typically sit between the coastal plain and the mountain foothills, on clay-and-limestone soils with varying degrees of altitude. The climate is moderated by both the mountain influence (cool nights) and the maritime (warm days). Wine has been made here for over 2,500 years.

The appellations

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC — the everyday-value appellation, one of the great value reds in Italian wine. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG — the top tier, from the cooler hills in the north of the region. Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG — the white appellations (though most Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is actually made from the more aromatic Bombino Bianco grape). Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC — the distinctive deep-pink rosato style.

The grapes

Reds: Montepulciano (see /encyclopedia/grapes-encyclopedia/montepulciano-encyclopedia/) — confusingly named, this is the regional grape and has nothing to do with the Tuscan village of Montepulciano (whose famous wine is made from Sangiovese). Whites: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (which may include some actual Trebbiano Toscano but also Bombino Bianco and other local varieties — the name ‘Trebbiano d’Abruzzo’ on a label is more about regional style than precise grape identity). Pecorino, Passerina, and Cococciola are other native white grapes that have been revived in the last two decades.

Style of the wines

Entry-level Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is fruit-forward, plummy, immediately enjoyable — one of the great cheap-and-cheerful reds in Italian wine. Top-tier examples from producers like Valentini, Emidio Pepe, Tiberio, and Cataldi Madonna show much more concentration and aging potential. Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Valentini is one of the most cult-followed Italian whites — biodynamic, low-yielding, and capable of aging twenty-plus years.

Vintages to know

2020 — outstanding. 2019 — exceptional. 2015 — superb. 2010 — legendary.

Producers we know

Edoardo Valentini (the cult biodynamic master — both Trebbiano and Montepulciano are reference wines), Emidio Pepe (similarly cult, similarly indispensable), Tiberio, Cataldi Madonna, Masciarelli, Illuminati, Cantina Frentana (cooperative).