The land

The Marche sits on the Adriatic coast of central Italy, east of Tuscany and Umbria. The region is overwhelmingly hilly, with vineyards on the slopes that run down from the Apennines to the sea. The combination of moderate maritime climate, calcareous and clay-marl soils, and good elevation produces wines with both freshness and structure — particularly true of the region’s signature white grape, Verdicchio.

The appellations

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC and Verdicchio di Matelica DOC — the two great Verdicchio appellations (see /encyclopedia/grapes-encyclopedia/verdicchio-encyclopedia/). Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG and Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG — the top tiers. Rosso Conero DOCG — the Montepulciano-led red from the hills south of Ancona. Rosso Piceno DOC — the southern Marche red appellation. Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC — the perfumed, distinctive indigenous red from a small zone north of Ancona.

Style of the wines

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi shows lemon, green apple, almond, white flower, with a bitter-almond finish that is the grape’s signature — light to medium body, bright acid. Verdicchio di Matelica is leaner and more structured, from higher-elevation inland sites. Rosso Conero shows the deep ruby, plummy character of Montepulciano with structure from extended barrel age. Lacrima di Morro d’Alba is famously aromatic — rose petal, violet, sour cherry, often with a slightly bitter, sappy character that splits opinions.

Vintages to know

2020 — outstanding. 2019 — exceptional. 2018 — generous. 2015 — superb.

Producers we know

Bucci (the regional reference for Verdicchio — Villa Bucci Riserva is one of Italy’s great long-aging whites), Garofoli, La Monacesca, Sartarelli, Stefano Mancinelli (Lacrima di Morro d’Alba), Umani Ronchi, Moroder (Rosso Conero), Velenosi.