The land

Emilia-Romagna sits south of the Po Valley between Lombardy and Tuscany. The region splits into two halves — Emilia in the west (around Parma and Modena) and Romagna in the east (around Bologna, Faenza, and Rimini). The cuisine is Italy’s most famous (Bolognese, prosciutto, parmigiano, balsamic vinegar), and the wines have historically been built around the local cuisine more than around critical acclaim. The last two decades have seen a serious quality revolution, particularly in Romagna’s Sangiovese zones.

The appellations

Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC — the famous frizzante red appellations of Emilia. Romagna Sangiovese DOC and Romagna Albana DOCG (Italy’s first white DOCG, granted in 1987). Colli Bolognesi DOC — the hills around Bologna. Colli Piacentini DOC — the hills around Piacenza, where serious aged Malvasia, Bonarda, and Barbera are made.

Lambrusco — the rehabilitation

Lambrusco was wrecked as a category in the 1970s and 80s by mass-produced sweet and semi-sweet versions exported globally. Real Lambrusco — particularly Lambrusco di Sorbara and Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro — is bone-dry, naturally sparkling, deeply colored, and one of the great food wines on earth. The traditional metodo ancestrale (one fermentation, bottled before completion, finishing in bottle) and method classico/Champenoise versions both produce serious wines. Top producers: Cleto Chiarli, Cantina della Volta, Vittorio Graziano, Paltrinieri.

Romagna Sangiovese

Romagna Sangiovese has historically lived in Tuscan Sangiovese’s shadow, but a quality revival is underway. The Romagna sub-zone of Predappio has been recognized for producing structured Sangiovese on calcareous soils, with serious producers like Fattoria Nicolucci, La Tomba, and Costa Archi making wines that compare favorably to mid-tier Chianti Classico at much lower prices.

Vintages to know

2020 — outstanding. 2019 — exceptional. 2016 — legendary for Sangiovese.

Producers we know

Cleto Chiarli, Cantina della Volta (Lambrusco), Fattoria Zerbina (the great Albana di Romagna producer — Scaccomatto is the reference), Castelluccio, Fattoria Nicolucci, San Patrignano (Romagna Sangiovese), Conte Otto Barattieri di San Pietro (Colli Piacentini).