The land

Southwest France (Sud-Ouest) is the umbrella term for the wine regions tucked between Bordeaux to the west, the Massif Central to the north, the Pyrenees to the south, and the Languedoc to the east. The region is enormous and geologically diverse — limestone, clay, schist, alluvial — and produces a remarkable diversity of wines from a remarkable diversity of indigenous grape varieties. Many of the appellations are tiny and known only to wine specialists, but the quality is real.

The appellations

Cahors AOP — the Malbec-dominant appellation (locally called Côt or Auxerrois), traditionally tannic and age-worthy. Madiran AOP — Tannat-dominant, the most tannic red in France. Bergerac AOP and Monbazillac AOP — Bordeaux-style reds and sweet whites using the same grapes as Bordeaux. Jurançon AOP — sweet and dry whites from Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng, on the foothills of the Pyrenees. Irouléguy AOP — Basque Country reds and whites from Tannat, Cabernet, and Petit Manseng. Marcillac, Gaillac, Fronton, and a half-dozen other small appellations round out the region.

The grape varieties

This is the most diverse indigenous-grape region in France. Reds: Tannat (Madiran), Malbec/Côt (Cahors), Negrette (Fronton), Fer Servadou or Mansois (Marcillac), Duras and Braucol (Gaillac), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (Bergerac). Whites: Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng (Jurançon), Mauzac (Gaillac, Limoux), Petit Courbu, Lauzet, Camaralet, Arrufiac, Loin-de-l’Œil, Sémillon, Sauvignon.

Style of the wines

Cahors: deeply pigmented, tannic, savory Malbec — often called the ‘Black Wine’ of Cahors. Madiran: massively tannic Tannat-led reds built for long aging. Jurançon Sec: dry whites with bright acid and exotic fruit. Jurançon Moelleux and Vendanges Tardives: sweet wines made from late-harvested or passerillé (partially-dried-on-the-vine) Petit Manseng. Bergerac whites: dry and sweet styles modeled on the Bordeaux/Sauternes template.

Vintages to know

2020 — outstanding. 2019 — exceptional. 2018 — generous. 2015 — superb. 2010 — legendary, especially for Madiran.

Producers we know

Madiran: Château Montus and Château Bouscassé (both Alain Brumont), Château d’Aydie, Domaine Berthoumieu. Cahors: Château du Cèdre, Clos Triguedina, Château Lagrézette, Cosse Maisonneuve. Jurançon: Domaine Cauhapé, Clos Lapeyre, Domaine Larredya, Domaine de Souch. Irouléguy: Domaine Brana, Arretxea.