The land

The Jura is a small wine region in eastern France, hugging the foothills of the Jura mountains on the Swiss border. The soils are a complex mix of clay, limestone, and marl, often with high iron content giving them a distinctive red-grey color. The climate is continental with a mountain influence — cooler than Burgundy, with sharp swings between summer and winter. The Jura is one of the smallest serious wine regions in France and produces only about 1% of the country’s total wine.

The appellations

Arbois AOP (the largest and most famous), Côtes du Jura AOP (covers the broader region), L’Étoile AOP (a small white-wine appellation), Château-Chalon AOP (Vin Jaune only, the most prestigious — and the only French AOC that mandates a single style).

The grapes

Whites: Savagnin (the great regional white, the foundation of Vin Jaune) and Chardonnay (also called Melon d’Arbois locally). Reds: Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir. Many Jura wines are blends — for instance, a white might be a Savagnin-Chardonnay blend, partially or fully oxidative.

The distinctive styles

Vin Jaune: Savagnin aged under a flor yeast for at least six years and three months, with no topping-up (similar to Sherry but unfortified). The wine develops nutty, saline, curry-spice character. Bottled in the 620ml clavelin. Vin de Paille: white grapes (often Savagnin or Chardonnay) dried on straw mats for at least six weeks, then pressed and slowly fermented to make a sweet wine. Macvin du Jura: a vin de liqueur made by adding marc to unfermented grape juice. The ‘ouillé’ style (topped up, non-oxidative) is also widely made for both whites and reds.

Vintages to know

2020 — outstanding. 2019 — exceptional. 2018 — generous. 2015 — concentrated. 2010 — legendary, especially for Vin Jaune.

Producers we know

Pierre Overnoy (the cult natural-wine pioneer in Pupillin), Jacques Puffeney (the retired master), Domaine Tissot, Domaine Macle (Château-Chalon), Jean Bourdy, Octavin, Domaine de la Tournelle, Jean-François Ganevat, Domaine de Montbourgeau (L’Étoile).