The land

Alsace sits in northeastern France along the eastern edge of the Vosges Mountains, sheltered from Atlantic weather and benefitting from one of the driest microclimates in France. The vineyards run along a narrow north-south band of foothill sites with diverse geology — granite, schist, limestone, sandstone, marl, and volcanic — often within a single village. The region is unique in France in labeling wines primarily by grape variety rather than appellation.

The grapes

Four ‘noble’ grapes are labeled separately and recognized as the top of the hierarchy: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, and Muscat. Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir (Alsace’s only serious red), and Chasselas round out the lineup. The Crémant d’Alsace category (traditional-method sparkling, mostly Pinot Blanc-led) is also serious.

The classifications

Alsace AOC: the basic regional appellation. Alsace Grand Cru AOC: 51 named single-vineyard sites with stricter rules and (often) higher quality — sites like Schlossberg, Brand, Rangen, Hengst, Kessler, and Schoenenbourg. Vendanges Tardives (late-harvest) and Sélection de Grains Nobles (botrytis-affected, individually picked berries) are the two sweet-wine designations, and produce some of the great sweet wines made in France.

Vintages to know

2022 — concentrated. 2019 — outstanding for late-harvest. 2018 — generous, balanced. 2015 — exceptional. 2010 — legendary, classical.

Producers we know

Trimbach, Hugel, Zind-Humbrecht, Marcel Deiss, Albert Mann, Domaine Weinbach, Marc Tempé, Josmeyer, André Ostertag, Schoffit (especially their Rangen Grand Cru). For Riesling specifically, Trimbach’s Clos Sainte Hune is one of the great dry Rieslings in the world.