Pinotage

Grape · Red · South Africa

Pinotage.

South Africa’s national grape — a 1925 crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault that has had a polarizing 100-year run.

The character

Pinotage is South Africa’s national red grape — a 1925 crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault (called Hermitage at the time, hence the name) by Stellenbosch University professor Abraham Perold. The variety has had a contentious history: poorly-made examples in the mid-20th century gave the grape a reputation for being burnt, rubbery, and over-extracted; modern winemakers have rehabilitated it, and the best contemporary Pinotage is one of the most distinctive serious reds made in the Southern Hemisphere.

Where it grows best

South Africa: the home, with serious plantings in Stellenbosch, Paarl, Swartland, Walker Bay, and the Cape’s other coastal districts. Top old-vine sites — particularly in the Swartland — are 50+ years old and produce wines of unusual concentration and structure. Smaller plantings in New Zealand, Brazil, and Israel.

How it tastes

Modern Pinotage: red and black plum, blackberry, raspberry, sometimes a sweet-smoke note that is the grape’s distinctive ‘banana-and-coffee’ aromatic when overripe or stressed (but balanced in better examples). Tannin is firm but ripe; acid is bright; alcohol typically 13.5-15%. Top Pinotage from a serious producer (Kanonkop, Beyerskloof Diesel, Boekenhoutskloof Wolftrap, Mullineux, AA Badenhorst) shows much more complexity, balance, and aging potential than the grape’s mid-20th-century reputation suggests.

How it ages

Top Pinotage ages fifteen to twenty-five years. Kanonkop’s Black Label Pinotage is the South African reference and is widely held to age at the level of serious Bordeaux or Northern Rhône. The wines develop a savory, dried-flower, leather complexity in their second decade.

What to pair with

South African braai (grilled meats). Boerewors. Bobotie. Game (kudu, springbok, ostrich). Slow-cooked stews. Grilled lamb. The wine’s bold profile demands bold, full-flavored food.