The character

Blaufränkisch is the most respected red grape of Austria. Known as Lemberger in Germany and Kékfrankos in Hungary, the variety produces structured, peppery, dark-fruited red wines with significant aging potential. Austrian Blaufränkisch from the country’s Burgenland region — particularly the Leithaberg and Eisenberg DACs — produces wines that have been compared to top Northern Rhône Syrah and serious Burgundy in equal measure.

Where it grows best

Burgenland, Austria: Leithaberg DAC, Eisenberg DAC, Mittelburgenland DAC. The combination of warm Pannonian climate and complex soils (limestone, slate, mica-schist) produces serious wines. Germany: Württemberg (as Lemberger). Hungary: Sopron (which borders Burgenland) and the Kékfrankos plantings in the Eger and Villány regions. Smaller plantings in the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Slovenia. Tiny experimental amounts in Washington and Pennsylvania.

How it tastes

Black cherry, dark plum, blueberry, white pepper, black pepper, violet, dried herbs, sometimes a slate-and-iron mineral note. Tannin is firm but fine-grained; acid is bright to high; alcohol typically 13-14%. The peppery character is distinctive and shares some DNA with what makes Northern Rhône Syrah so aromatic.

How it ages

Top Burgenland Blaufränkisch (Roland Velich’s Moric, Uwe Schiefer, Paul Achs, Wachter-Wiesler, Kollwentz) ages twenty to thirty years and develops a savory, leather, dried-flower tertiary complexity that’s distinctively Central European. Aged Blaufränkisch is one of the great hidden categories in serious wine.

What to pair with

Game (venison, wild boar, pheasant). Austrian and Hungarian cuisine (goulash, paprika-spiced dishes). Roast pork. Lamb. Aged hard cheeses. Mushroom dishes. The peppery character makes Blaufränkisch a great companion to anything seasoned with black pepper.