The character

Pedro Ximénez (often shortened to PX) is the grape that makes the great sweet Sherry — and one of the most extreme sweet wines in the world. The process: grapes are harvested, then laid out on grass mats in the sun for one to three weeks to dehydrate, concentrating the sugars to extreme levels. The dried grapes are pressed (with great difficulty) and the resulting syrupy must is fermented partially, then fortified and aged in solera. The finished wine can have residual sugar of 400-500 grams per liter — among the sweetest serious wines made.

Where it grows best

Montilla-Moriles DOP, in inland Andalucía south of Córdoba, is the spiritual home of PX — the hot, dry conditions are ideal for the sun-drying process. The grape is also grown in Jerez for the same purpose. Small amounts in Málaga DOP (where the sweet Málaga wines also use PX) and historical plantings in Australia and South Africa, but commercially insignificant outside Spain.

How it tastes

Liquid raisin. Concentrated fig, date, prune, dark molasses, espresso, dark chocolate, walnut, sometimes a smoky leather note in older examples. The texture is thick, almost syrupy. Acid is surprisingly bright considering the sweetness, which keeps the wine from being cloying. Alcohol typically 15-17%.

How it ages

PX is essentially indestructible. The combination of high sugar, oxidative aging, and alcohol means bottles continue to evolve for decades. Top VOS and VORS Pedro Ximénez (Toro Albalá Don PX Convento Selección, Bodegas Tradición PX, Lustau Pedro Ximénez VORS) — many of which are blended from soleras dating to the 19th century — are some of the most extraordinary aged wines on earth.

What to pair with

Vanilla ice cream (the traditional Andalusian way — pour it directly over the ice cream). Blue cheese, especially Cabrales and aged Stilton. Dark chocolate desserts. Dried fruits and nuts. Foie gras. PX is also superb on its own as a slow-sipping after-dinner pour.