The character

Palomino is, taken on its own merits as a still wine, an unremarkable grape — high-yielding, neutral, low in acid, prone to oxidation. But the oxidation susceptibility, combined with the magic of biological aging under a layer of flor yeast, makes Palomino the foundation of every dry style of Sherry — Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, and Oloroso. The grape accounts for about 95% of all Sherry plantings and is the reason the Jerez triangle remains one of the most distinctive wine regions in the world.

Where it grows best

The Jerez triangle in Andalucía: Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María. The soils here — albariza, the chalk-white limestone that distinguishes the region — combined with the Atlantic maritime influence (especially in Sanlúcar) produce Palomino with the right base characteristics for Sherry. Smaller plantings in Montilla-Moriles (Andalucía), South Africa, Australia, and California.

How it tastes

As a still wine: lemon, green apple, almond, sometimes a slightly oxidative nutty note. The grape’s real personality emerges only after fermentation and during the biological or oxidative aging process that makes Sherry. Fino and Manzanilla show salty almond, dough, chamomile. Amontillado shows hazelnut, dried fruit. Oloroso shows walnut, leather, savory umami. Palo Cortado splits the difference. Sherry alcohol typically ranges from 15% (Fino, Manzanilla) to 20% (Oloroso).

How it ages

The solera system — Sherry’s traditional fractional-blending aging method — means every bottle of Sherry contains wine of multiple ages. Top-tier VOS (Very Old Sherry, minimum 20 years) and VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry, minimum 30 years) bottlings are some of the most distinctive aged wines made. Sherry can age for decades in the bottle after release, particularly the Oloroso and Palo Cortado styles.

What to pair with

Fino and Manzanilla: olives, almonds, jamón ibérico, fried seafood (gambas al ajillo), the entire Andalusian tapas repertoire. Amontillado: aged hard cheeses, mushroom dishes, salted nuts, consommé. Oloroso: aged hard cheeses, slow-cooked meats, rich umami dishes, foie gras. Few wine categories are as food-flexible as Sherry — and few are as undervalued.