The character

Lagrein is an ancient indigenous grape of the Trentino-Alto Adige region of northern Italy. DNA testing has shown it to be a child of Teroldego (another local grape) and a grandchild of Pinot Noir, which gives some sense of the lineage. The wine is darkly pigmented, structured, tannic, and at its best produces serious age-worthy reds with an unmistakable alpine character — cool red and black fruit, savory herb, and the iron-mineral spine of high-elevation viticulture.

Where it grows best

Alto Adige (Südtirol), Italy — particularly around the city of Bolzano and the surrounding villages of Gries, Santa Maddalena, and Cornaiano. The Trentino (just south) also produces serious Lagrein. Almost no plantings outside northern Italy — the grape is geographically very specific. Top producers include Cantina Terlano, Cantina Bolzano, J. Hofstätter, Muri-Gries, Tiefenbrunner, and Alois Lageder.

How it tastes

Deep ruby-purple, often with violet tints. Black cherry, plum, bitter chocolate, violet, juniper, sometimes an iron-rich earthy note and a touch of bitter almond on the finish. Tannin is firm and grippy; acid is bright; alcohol typically 13-14%. The grape can be vinified as a fresher, lighter rosé (Lagrein Kretzer) or as a serious red (Lagrein Dunkel).

How it ages

Top Lagrein Riserva ages fifteen to twenty-five years. The tannin softens slowly; the dark fruit dries and concentrates; tertiary notes of leather, dried herbs, and forest floor develop. The grape is one of the most age-worthy Italian alpine reds.

What to pair with

Alpine and Tyrolean cuisine: speck, smoked meats, venison, wild boar, sausages, polenta with rich ragù. Hearty stews. Mountain cheeses (especially the aged Trentino-Tirolese cheeses like Vezzena and Asiago Stravecchio). The grape’s high tannin and acid want fatty, slow-cooked food.