The character

Roussanne (sometimes called Bergeron in Savoie) is the more aromatic, higher-acid partner to Marsanne in northern Rhône whites. On its own it produces wines of unusual aromatic complexity — pear, herb tea, beeswax, white flower, sometimes a savory tarragon note — with much more vivacity than Marsanne and a longer aging potential. It is, however, notoriously difficult to grow: low-yielding, prone to disease, and easily damaged by wind.

Where it grows best

Northern Rhône — blended with Marsanne in Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, and Saint-Péray. Southern Rhône — a minor but legal partner in Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, and in Côtes du Rhône Blanc. Savoie (as Bergeron in the Chignin-Bergeron appellation) makes a leaner, more alpine style. California — Tablas Creek and other Rhône-focused producers in Paso Robles. Australia and South Africa make small amounts of serious Roussanne.

How it tastes

Pear, white peach, chamomile, herb tea, beeswax, sometimes a tarragon-and-fennel savoriness. The aromatic complexity is the calling card — Roussanne is one of the most layered single-grape whites in wine when it’s done well. Acid is moderate to high; alcohol typically 13-14.5%; texture is medium-weight, less viscous than Marsanne.

How it ages

Top Roussanne ages twenty-plus years. Beaucastel’s Vieilles Vignes Roussanne from Châteauneuf-du-Pape — a 100% Roussanne wine — is one of the great age-worthy whites in the world and develops for thirty years and longer. The wines tend to close down for a period after release and then re-emerge with much more complexity in their second decade.

What to pair with

Roast chicken with tarragon. Sole or other lean fish in butter sauce. Mushroom risotto. Crab cakes. Soft cheeses. Roussanne is more food-flexible than Marsanne and handles a wider range of dishes thanks to its higher acid.