The land
Greece has been making wine for at least 6,500 years, among the oldest continuous wine cultures on earth. The country's wine landscape is geographically diverse: the volcanic Aegean islands (Santorini chief among them), the mountainous mainland of Macedonia, the Peloponnese, the Ionian islands, and the great vine-growing zones of Cephalonia, Crete, and Samos. Greek wine declined dramatically in the 20th century but has had a remarkable renaissance over the last three decades, led by producers focused on indigenous grape varieties and serious old-vine sites.
The major regions
Macedonia (northern Greece): Naoussa (Xinomavro), Amyndeon, Goumenissa. Peloponnese: Nemea (Agiorgitiko), Mantinia (Moschofilero), Patras. Santorini (Cyclades islands): Assyrtiko. Cephalonia (Ionian islands): Robola, Mavrodaphne. Crete: Liatiko, Vidiano, Vilana. Samos: Muscat (the world's reference Samos sweet Muscat).
The indigenous grape varieties
Greece has more native grape varieties, over 300, than almost any other wine country. The most important: Assyrtiko (Santorini), Xinomavro (Macedonia), Agiorgitiko (Nemea), Moschofilero (Mantinia, aromatic pink-skinned white), Robola (Cephalonia), Malagousia (a revived ancient white grape), Vidiano (Crete), Mandilaria (Crete), Liatiko (Crete). All are worth seeking; almost none are widely planted outside Greece.
Style of the wines
Greek wines often have a saline-mineral quality from the Mediterranean influence. Reds tend toward the lighter, more aromatic, more food-friendly end of the spectrum (with the exception of Xinomavro and the structured Nemea reds). Whites are often defined by high acid and citrus-and-herb character. The wines pair naturally with the Mediterranean cuisine of olive oil, feta, lamb, and seafood.
Producers we know
Sigalas, Hatzidakis, Argyros, Vassaltis (Santorini Assyrtiko). Kir-Yianni, Boutari, Karydas, Foundis (Macedonia Xinomavro). Skouras, Gaia, Driopi, Papaioannou (Nemea Agiorgitiko). Tselepos (Mantinia Moschofilero). Gentilini (Cephalonia Robola). Lyrarakis (Crete).
On our shelves
Wines in the catalogue that match this entry by region or country.