Salomon Undhof Riesling Ried Pfaffenberg 1996, Kremstal, Austria
This library release of the 1996 vintage is a real treat to scoop up! Riesling cellars magnificently due to its racing acidity, and this Austrian masterpiece is bone-dry. The vineyard location is a steep, south-facing terrace that is exposed to the wind and directly on the Danube. Gneis and granite dominate the stony soils of Pfaffenberg. Salomon Undhof is one of the oldest family-owned wineries in Austria. Bert and Fay Salomon are the 9th generation to take over their family’s historic winery, a pillar of quality in the Wachau Valley since 1792. This is a vibrant white with exceptionally fine minerality. It combines elegance and finesse with the expression of longevity.
According to importer Terry Theise: “The last vintage from the old cellar-regime; I thought it might be ‘difficult,’ being a 1996 and all, but it’s a lovely grown-up Riesling, old-school, murmury and herbal, with a juiciness as if you’d squeezed the sap from herb leaves; salty and brothy and atmospheric; dried apricot–preserved things in general–potpourri; a rare chance at a 2ndstage Riesling that’s sanely priced.”